ZEM Prague
Prague, Czechia · Nové Město
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
RECOGNITIONS
About ZEM Prague
ZEM Prague redefines Czech dining through the lens of avant-garde bistronomy and Japanese izakaya influences, where chef Libor Kristofčak weaves together the terroir of Central Europe with the precision and restraint of East Asian technique. The open kitchen serves as a theatrical stage of charcoal and steam, set against a striking 1920s retro-futuristic aesthetic inspired by Czech art and literature. With a Gault & Millau 13.5/20 rating and an exceptional wine program featuring both Czech and international selections, this is cooking for those who seek boundary-pushing flavors grounded in rigorous technique and sense of place.
Good to know
Request seating at the kitchen counter—the interaction with the brigade and front-row view of the charcoal work and plating adds an entirely different dimension to the meal.
The chef
Libor Kristofčak
Libor Kristofčak honed his craft at Hotelova Akademia in Slovakia before building experience across notable kitchens including the Mandarin Oriental, Augustin, and Taro, culminating in a formative stage at Kitchen W8 in London where he absorbed the precision and refinement of contemporary European cooking. His philosophy at ZEM centers on reinterpreting Czech terroir through Japanese technique—an approach that respects both traditions while forging something entirely new. The kitchen operates with the calm focus of a well-drilled brigade, balancing izakaya-style informality with bistronomy rigor, evident in everything from his command of charcoal cookery to his thoughtful handling of indigenous Czech ingredients.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
Kristofčak's cooking speaks to his time at Kitchen W8 in London and the Mandarin Oriental—dishes like potato waffles with smoked cheese and beef tartare showcase Czech ingredients reimagined through precise technique and izakaya-style presentation. The short rib and dried Angus beef with truffle mayo demonstrate expert command of Maillard development and umami layering, while vegetarian tasting menus reveal a kitchen comfortable working across the full spectrum of flavor profiles. Execution is consistently sharp, with generous portions and thoughtful plating that balances sophistication with approachability.
Vibe
LivelyThe golden-brown interior evokes interwar Czech modernism with a futuristic edge, creating an atmosphere that feels both intimate and theatrical—especially at the kitchen counter seating where the brigade's choreography becomes part of the show. The energy skews upscale-casual, drawing a mix of hotel guests, culinary-minded locals, and curious travelers seeking something beyond traditional Czech fare. The immersive 3D mapping dinner show (Le Petit Chef and Friends) adds a playful, almost surreal dimension for those seeking a more experiential evening.
Service
The sommelier team demonstrates genuine expertise in navigating both Czech and international wines, offering thoughtful pairings that bridge the menu's dual culinary identities. Front-of-house staff approach service with warmth and professionalism, explaining dishes in detail and adapting gracefully to dietary preferences—vegetarian degustations are customized with care. Pacing is generally well-calibrated, though on busier evenings coordination can occasionally falter, particularly with larger groups.
Setting
The open kitchen commands the room, functioning as both workspace and performance stage where fire, steam, and precision converge under soft golden lighting. Art Deco-inspired design elements nod to Czech cultural heritage while maintaining a distinctly modern sensibility, with seating options ranging from intimate tables to kitchen counter perches for those who want to watch the brigade work. Located in Nové Město near Senovážné Square, the space feels both anchored to its Andaz Prague connection yet distinct enough to stand as its own culinary destination.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Avant-garde Czech-Japanese fusion executed with serious technique and theatrical presentation
- An exceptional wine program with knowledgeable sommeliers who bridge Czech and international selections
- The open kitchen experience and interactive dining atmosphere at the counter seats
Don't go for
- Traditional Czech cooking without modern reinterpretation or Japanese influences
- A quiet, understated dining experience—the open kitchen and 3D mapping shows bring energy and spectacle
Details
Senovážné nám. 976/32, Nové Město, 110 00 Praha-Praha 1, Czechia
€€