Restaurante Makoto
Panama City, Panama
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
About Restaurante Makoto
Chef Makoto Okuwa brings serious Edomae pedigree to Panama City's skyline, having trained under sushi masters Makoto Kumazaki and Shinichi Takegasa, and worked alongside Iron Chef Morimoto. This sleek rooftop destination marries traditional sushi craft with robata grilling and the theatrical option of Aoi Teppanyaki, an eight-course showcase. The kitchen draws on Edomae technique—that precise, minimalist Tokyo style—while allowing room for creative riffs, making it a go-to for both purists and diners seeking something beyond the standard nigiri lineup. Expect a polished, upscale experience with panoramic city views and a drinks program anchored by premium sake and Japanese whisky.
Good to know
Book the Aoi Teppanyaki room for the eight-course teppanyaki experience if you want theater and intimacy—it's a different lane entirely from the main dining room.
The chef
Makoto Okuwa
Makoto Okuwa built his foundation through rigorous apprenticeships under sushi masters Makoto Kumazaki and Shinichi Takegasa, absorbing the discipline and precision of traditional Edomae technique. His tenure working alongside Iron Chef Morimoto exposed him to high-level creativity and the fusion possibilities within Japanese cuisine, shaping his willingness to balance tradition with contemporary expression. In 2005, he earned recognition from the James Beard Foundation for outstanding contribution, cementing his reputation beyond Panama. His approach honors classical sushi craft—proper aging, knife work, rice temperature—while leaving room for robata exploration and ingredient-driven improvisation that speaks to his surroundings.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
The fish quality here is consistently top-tier—the sashimi samplers showcase pristine cuts with proper texture and temperature control, while the nigiri reflects classic Edomae principles: room-temperature rice, minimal intervention, fish at center stage. Beyond the sushi bar, the robata section delivers deeply satisfying umami-rich skewers—grilled octopus, Angus beef, and wagyu preparations earn devoted fans—and the truffle salmon and spicy yellowtail with jalapeño show where the kitchen allows itself to play.
Vibe
LivelyThe rooftop setting sets a sophisticated, business-elegant tone—this is where Panama City's corporate crowd closes deals and celebrates milestones. The outdoor terrace offers skyline drama at sunset, while the indoor space runs sleek and modern, though the AC can be aggressive. Expect a polished, upscale energy—refined but not stuffy, with just enough buzz to feel alive without overwhelming conversation.
Service
The brigade greets you warmly—sushi chefs included—and service flows with professional attentiveness, though the sheer number of staff circling tables can occasionally feel over-orchestrated. The team knows the menu deeply and will guide you through sake pairings and dish selection with confidence. On peak nights, expect polished execution, though some regulars note that special occasion gestures—complimentary bites, anniversary acknowledgments—can feel inconsistent.
Setting
Housed in Kenex Plaza, distinguished by Carlos Cruz Diez's kinetic facade, the restaurant itself is all clean lines, warm wood accents, and contemporary minimalism. The rooftop location delivers unobstructed views of Panama City's illuminated skyline, making the terrace the most coveted real estate come twilight. Inside, the open sushi bar and teppanyaki theater provide visual engagement, while the overall aesthetic leans modern and international rather than overtly traditional Japanese.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Serious Edomae-trained sushicraft with pristine fish quality
- Panoramic rooftop skyline views and sophisticated upscale atmosphere
- Robust robata and teppanyaki options beyond the sushi bar
Don't go for
- Budget-conscious dining—this is premium pricing across the board
- Intimate, hushed ambiance—the energy skews polished and business-forward
Details
Obarrio, Kenex Plaza, C. 59 Este, Panamá, Provincia de Panamá, Panama
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