Paco Roncero Restaurante
Madrid, Spain · Centro
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
RECOGNITIONS
About Paco Roncero Restaurante
Perched atop the historic Casino de Madrid, Paco Roncero Restaurante delivers a two-Michelin-starred avant-garde experience that fuses technical virtuosity with theatrical presentation. Chef Paco Roncero, a protégé of the Adrià lineage, orchestrates multi-sensory tasting menus that push boundaries while honoring Spanish tradition—expect dishes that challenge perception and delight in equal measure. The restaurant features both a refined dining room with Jaime Hayon's modern design and a rooftop terrace overlooking the city, alongside the immersive Paco Roncero Workshop for those seeking a deeper plunge into culinary theater. This is destination dining for those who crave innovation, precision, and a feast for all five senses.
Good to know
Request a table on the rooftop terrace for lunch or early evening—the natural light and city views add warmth to the avant-garde experience and soften the otherwise polished, gallery-like interior.
The chef
Paco Roncero
Paco Roncero trained at Madrid's Escuela de Hostelería y Turismo before cutting his teeth at Zalacaín and the Hotel Ritz, eventually landing in the orbit of Ferran Adrià, whose avant-garde philosophy profoundly shaped his approach. He earned the National Gastronomy Award in 2006 and the Chef L'Avenir Award in 2005, cementing his reputation as one of Spain's most technically adventurous chefs. Roncero's philosophy revolves around multi-sensory exploration and molecular technique, with a particular obsession for olive oil as a cornerstone ingredient—his workshop collection of 216 varieties speaks to this devotion. His cooking balances conceptual daring with respect for Spanish terroir, creating tasting menus that challenge diners intellectually while delivering genuine pleasure.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
Roncero's cooking is unabashedly avant-garde, built on impeccable technique honed during his formative years under Ferran Adrià's influence and refined through decades of research. The tasting menus showcase bold flavor combinations and theatrical presentations—think caviar donuts, intricate appetizer sequences, and desserts that blur sweet-savory boundaries—all executed with the precision of a brigade that understands molecular gastronomy and classical foundations in equal measure. While some dishes lean heavily into conceptual territory, the kitchen's commitment to high-quality Spanish ingredients and intelligent seasoning keeps most courses grounded in deliciousness.
Vibe
IntimateThe dining room exudes modern elegance with an avant-garde edge, thanks to designer Jaime Hayon's sleek aesthetic that balances sophistication with theatrical flair. The energy is refined and focused, attracting serious gastronomes and celebratory diners who appreciate the hushed reverence of a fine-dining performance. The rooftop terrace offers a lighter, airier alternative with city views, though the interior's polished brightness keeps the mood more museum-gallery than intimate cocoon.
Service
The brigade delivers polished, professional service befitting a two-starred establishment, with detailed explanations of each course and a genuine warmth that softens the formality. Sommelier María José Huertas oversees a cellar with over 800 references, offering thoughtful pairings that complement Roncero's bold flavor profiles. Pacing is generally well-orchestrated across the multi-course journey, though the sheer number of plates (up to 27 individual preparations) demands stamina and attention from both kitchen and guests.
Setting
The location inside the palatial Casino de Madrid on Calle Alcalá is breathtaking, with guests ascending to a light-filled dining room dressed in contemporary design that contrasts beautifully with the building's historic grandeur. Hayon's interiors feature sleek lines, modern artwork, and a pristine aesthetic that some find more clinical than cozy, though the rooftop terrace with panoramic city views provides a softer, more romantic backdrop. The space also houses the olive oil workshop showcasing 216 varieties, a testament to Roncero's obsession with this cornerstone ingredient.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Two-Michelin-starred avant-garde cuisine that pushes boundaries without losing sight of flavor
- A multi-sensory tasting menu experience with theatrical presentations and technical mastery
- The rooftop terrace setting with panoramic Madrid views inside a historic palace
Don't go for
- Traditional Spanish cuisine or conservative palates uncomfortable with molecular techniques
- Intimate, dimly lit romance—the bright, modern space feels more gallery than cocoon
Details
C. Alcalá, 15, Centro, 28014 Madrid, Spain
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