Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
About Metaxi Mas
Tucked into the quiet hillside village of Exo Gonia, Metaxi Mas is the kind of place locals guard fiercely—a family-run taverna where brothers Dimitri and Kosta have been serving authentic Cretan and Santorinian cooking for over two decades. The kitchen deals in refined comfort food built on daily shipments of fresh ingredients from Crete, turning traditional recipes into something both deeply familiar and unexpectedly elevated. With sweeping views over the island and an atmosphere that buzzes with genuine warmth, this is where you come to understand what Greek hospitality truly means—just book well ahead, as tables fill fast.
Good to know
Arrive at 6pm if you're hoping to snag a table without a reservation—dinner service starts later here, and early birds often get lucky.
The chef
Dimitri and Kosta
Brothers Dimitri and Kosta have steered Metaxi Mas for over twenty years, building their reputation on a simple but demanding philosophy: source the best ingredients daily from Crete and let them speak with minimal interference. Their approach is rooted in family recipes and traditional Santorinian and Cretan techniques, refined through decades of consistent execution and a deep respect for the island's culinary heritage. What drives their kitchen isn't innovation for its own sake, but rather the pursuit of flavor and authenticity—cooking that honors where they come from while earning the devotion of locals who could eat anywhere on the island but choose to return here.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
The cooking here honors tradition with quiet refinement, from dolmades that achieve perfect tenderness to eggplant dishes layered with creamy richness and al dente texture. Lamb preparations—whether the shank or yogurt-dressed chops—showcase proper seasoning and precise cooking, while the pork rack steak delivers bold, peppery depth that leaves you scraping the plate. Complimentary raki, bread, cheese, and olives open the meal, and the house strawberry cheesecake arrives unbidden at the end, a sweet signature of the family's generosity.
Vibe
LivelyThe atmosphere strikes that rare balance between lively energy and genuine warmth, with the open kitchen adding to the sense of theater without overwhelming conversation. Tables spill across an outdoor terrace where views stretch toward the Aegean and the airport runway, creating a uniquely Santorinian backdrop as the evening light fades. The crowd skews toward those in the know—locals, return visitors, and travelers who've done their homework—all contributing to a buzzing, convivial mood that feels earned rather than manufactured.
Service
The family-run operation delivers service that's both professional and warmly personal, with staff who ask about allergies, pace the meal thoughtfully, and make you feel like a regular even on your first visit. Hospitality here is instinctive rather than scripted—glasses are refilled before you notice they're empty, and dishes arrive with genuine pride in what's on the plate. The team moves with the ease of people who've worked together for years, creating a rhythm that keeps the dining room humming without ever feeling rushed.
Setting
The hillside location in Exo Gonia requires a short walk down an alleyway from the main road—a deliberate removal from the tourist crush that sets the tone before you even sit down. The space itself blends traditional Greek character with simple, unfussy charm: whitewashed walls, rustic tables, and those sweeping ocean and landscape views that remind you exactly where you are. Indoor and outdoor seating options mean you can choose your backdrop, though the terrace at sunset is the table everyone hopes for.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Authentic Cretan-Santorinian cooking that respects tradition while elevating flavor
- Sweeping island views from a hillside perch away from the tourist crowds
- Generous, genuine Greek hospitality in a family-run setting with two decades of refinement
Don't go for
- A quiet, intimate dinner—the lively, buzzing atmosphere means energy runs high
- Spontaneous dining without booking ahead, especially during summer evenings when tables are impossible to secure