Paris, France · Rochechouart
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
Tucked within the HOY Hotel on Rue des Martyrs, mesa de HOY brings chef Victor Medina's plant-based Franco-Mexican vision to Paris's 9th arrondissement with a sophistication that transcends the vegan category. Drawing on Latin American roots and a commitment to seasonal, organic sourcing, the kitchen delivers bold, umami-driven plates that satisfy carnivores and herbivores alike. Natural wine curator Serena Roubacka orchestrates a thoughtful selection that evolves alongside the menu, making this a destination for those who seek ingredient-focused cooking without compromise.
Book ahead—the intimate table count means walk-ins are rarely accommodated, especially for dinner service.
Victor Medina honed his craft at the Park Hyatt Paris, where he developed the technical foundation that now underpins his plant-based approach at mesa de HOY. His cooking philosophy centers on sustainability and seasonality, sourcing fresh, local, and organic ingredients to build a Franco-Mexican repertoire that honors his Latin American heritage. Medina's kitchen demonstrates that vegetables deserve the same rigorous technique as proteins, applying French precision to bold, umami-forward flavors that reveal his dual training. His work represents a new wave of chefs who've moved beyond plant-based as limitation, instead treating it as creative liberation.
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Medina's cooking balances Mexican technique with French refinement, yielding standout dishes like the corn tortilla with avocado and salsa macha that regulars order repeatedly, and tofu croquettes that demonstrate serious technical skill. The polenta defies expectations with its light texture, while starters like charred broccoli and pakoras show a confidence with heat and spice that sets the kitchen apart. Mains deliver on umami depth—the risotto earns particular praise—though desserts, while competent, don't quite match the savory program's ambition.
The dining room exudes a peaceful, botanical calm that feels deliberately removed from typical Parisian dining energy—think Japan meets California naturalisme with comfortable seating and floral accents from the adjoining flower shop. The atmosphere skews sophisticated yet relaxed, drawing a mindful crowd that includes laptop workers by day and diners seeking a quieter, contemplative evening without the hustle of traditional bistros. It's a space designed for conversation and genuine unwinding.
The team brings warm, un-Parisian hospitality that puts guests immediately at ease, with servers like Gallida and Jeet earning devoted followings for their attentive, knowledgeable approach. Expect thoughtful wine recommendations and genuine enthusiasm when explaining dishes, delivered with a smile rather than formality. Pacing is generally smooth, with plates arriving promptly and staff who read the room well.
Botanical design defines the space, with fresh flowers, natural materials, and a calming color palette that extends the hotel's wellness-focused ethos into the dining room. The connection to the flower shop at the entrance creates a unique threshold experience, while the sophisticated mise en place and comfortable seating encourage lingering. Located in the heart of the 9th arrondissement's creative corridor, it's a design-forward oasis that feels intentional in every detail.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
68 R. des Martyrs, 75009 Paris, France
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