Marias Forte Dei Marmi
Forte dei Marmi, Italy
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
About Marias Forte Dei Marmi
Nestled poolside at the Principessa Forte dei Marmi, Marias is where Jason Atherton's menu vision meets the sun-drenched vitality of the Tuscan coast. Chef Giorgio Cicero draws on a formidable training pedigree—spanning Frantzén, Pure C, and Atherton's own kitchens—to deliver Italian cooking with proper European technique and ingredient-first restraint. The vibe is casual elegance with aperitivo energy, a place that functions as both a neighbourhood gathering spot and a destination for serious eaters who appreciate honest, seasonal plates over fuss. It's for anyone who wants the best of the Versilian Riviera without the stuffiness.
Good to know
Ask for the tomato dip that comes with bread—it's a quiet star of the meal and a preview of the kitchen's respect for pure flavour.
The chef
Giorgio Cicero
Giorgio Cicero cut his teeth at some of Europe's most exacting kitchens, including stages at Frantzén in Stockholm, Pure C in the Netherlands, and Accursio in Sicily, alongside time in Jason Atherton's London brigade at Maze, Pollen Street Social, and Marina Social. His training at Boscolo Etoile Academy and a stint at Quince in San Francisco rounded out a career path built on rigorous technique and global perspective. At Marias, Cicero channels this formidable background into seasonal, ingredient-first cooking that honours Tuscan tradition while drawing on family recipes and European trends. His philosophy is grounded in freshness, locality, and honesty—letting the Versilian coast speak through every plate.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
Cicero's approach is deceptively simple: burrata and tomato, pesto pasta, and gnocchi sorrentina rely entirely on pristine local sourcing and precise execution rather than conceptual fireworks. The seafood showcases the daily Tyrrhenian catch, while his steak and seasonal salads (think avocado-peach) hint at the global training behind the stove. This is technique-driven Italian cooking that respects terroir and tradition without being bound by either.
Vibe
LivelyThe poolside setting brings a breezy, social energy—think aperitivo rituals, crafted cocktails, and a crowd that includes both hotel guests and Forte locals who treat it like their own. The atmosphere skews vibrant and welcoming, with a casual warmth that encourages lingering over plates and wine. It's lively without being loud, elegant without being precious.
Service
The brigade runs with the kind of genuine hospitality that makes you feel like a guest, not just another cover—the team is attentive, knowledgeable, and genuinely happy to engage. Chef Giorgio himself often makes the rounds, adding a personal touch that elevates the entire experience. Pacing is confident, and the candied almonds and map of Forte dei Marmi that arrive with the bill are a charming parting ritual.
Setting
The poolside location within the Principessa hotel gives Marias a resort-chic aesthetic that's refined yet relaxed, with clean lines and a sun-soaked Mediterranean palette. The space flows seamlessly between indoor and outdoor seating, capturing the effortless elegance of the Versilian coast. It's a beautiful setting that doesn't try too hard, letting the natural light and coastal breezes do the heavy lifting.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Ingredient-driven Italian cooking executed with serious European technique
- Poolside aperitivo rituals and a vibrant, welcoming social scene
- Chef Giorgio Cicero's personal hospitality and thoughtful, seasonal menus
Don't go for
- An extensive wine cellar or deep bottle list—the selection is solid but focused
- A quiet, intimate dinner for two—the energy here leans social and lively
Details
Via Caio Duilio, 3, 55042 Forte dei Marmi LU, Italy
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