Maitó dal 1960
Forte dei Marmi, Italy
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
About Maitó dal 1960
Since 1960, Maitó has been the beating heart of Versilia's dolce vita, a legendary beachfront institution where cinema legends and entrepreneurs have long gathered for impeccable seafood and the kind of effortless Italian elegance that can't be manufactured. Under Executive Chef Gianluca Tolla, the restaurant balances reverence for tradition—most famously in the Penne alla Maitó, a golden-era classic enriched with 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano Vacche Rosse and Normandy butter—with contemporary fusion influences that emerge poolside in the evening. This is Forte dei Marmi at its most refined yet relaxed, where the wood-fired pizzas are as serious as the crudo, and the sea air mingles with live music under the stars.
Good to know
Request a table on the main terrace when booking—not just 'outdoor seating'—as early seatings can sometimes be positioned in less desirable areas if you're not specific.
The chef
Gianluca Tolla
Executive Chef Gianluca Tolla helms the kitchen at Maitó, overseeing both the traditional Italian seafood offerings and the more adventurous fusion menu that appears poolside in the evenings. His approach balances respect for Versilia's culinary heritage—evidenced in the careful preservation of classics like Penne alla Maitó—with contemporary global influences drawn from various cultures. While specific details of his training and career path remain closely held, his work demonstrates a philosophy rooted in ingredient quality and the kind of confidence that allows simplicity to shine alongside more complex preparations.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
The kitchen's strength lies in pristine seafood handled with restraint—charcoal-grilled sea bream and linguine with lemon, butter, and caviar showcase quality ingredients treated with respect rather than over-manipulation. The signature Penne alla Maitó, made with biodynamic tomato purée and aged Parmigiano, remains a symbol of the restaurant's heritage, while wood-fired pizzas and focaccias deliver proper blistered crusts. The fusion menu in the evening poolside setting brings global influences into play, though traditionalists will find the à la carte offerings more consistent.
Vibe
LivelyThe atmosphere channels 1950s Italian beach club elegance—dignified yet laid-back, with a carefully decorated terrace that captures Forte dei Marmi's particular brand of relaxed glamour. Live music (often a singer and keyboard player) sets the tone at dinner, while the beachfront location provides natural drama with sunset views and sea breezes. Expect a convivial, cosmopolitan crowd in high season, and be prepared for warmth on the terrace during peak summer evenings when the energy runs high.
Service
The brigade delivers attentive, professional service with genuine warmth—staff are well-versed in the menu and wine list, and manage the flow of a busy room with practiced efficiency. While the hospitality is consistently praised for its friendliness and helpfulness, pacing can feel rushed when the restaurant is at capacity during high season. Seating assignments tend to favor regulars, so establishing yourself early or booking with specificity about terrace tables helps ensure prime positioning.
Setting
The beachfront terrace is the crown jewel, where you dine with sand underfoot and the Tyrrhenian stretching before you, all wrapped in carefully considered décor that balances contemporary art with nostalgic coastal charm. The larger My Maitó complex includes imperial tents, a swimming pool, wellness area, and lounge bar, creating an all-day destination rather than just a dining room. By evening, the poolside transforms into an intimate dining experience with atmospheric lighting and live music, offering a different energy from the main terrace.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- The legendary Penne alla Maitó and pristine seafood in a beachfront setting steeped in Versilia history
- The complete Italian beach club experience with swimming pool, wellness facilities, and evening entertainment
- A quintessential Forte dei Marmi scene where dolce vita glamour meets serious wood-fired pizza and grilled fish
Don't go for
- Budget-conscious dining—this is luxury pricing for a luxury experience in one of Italy's most exclusive beach towns
- Guaranteed terrace seating without advance planning—prime tables go to regulars and those who book specifically
Details
Via Arenile, 27, 55042 Forte dei Marmi LU, Italy
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