Los 33 Restaurante
Madrid, Spain · Centro
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
RECOGNITIONS
About Los 33 Restaurante
Los 33 is a grill-led Hispanic-Uruguayan project that brings the soulful ritual of the asado to Madrid's Centro district, pairing dry-aged beef cooked over wood and charcoal with a lively, candlelit atmosphere that rejects steakhouse formality. Executive Chef Oswaldo González orchestrates a menu that bridges South American tradition and contemporary technique, while live DJ sets and continuous service from lunch until 1 AM create a dining experience that feels equal parts supper club and serious grill house. Expect waits—reservations book out weeks ahead, and the walk-in queue is a nightly fixture—but regulars swear the energy and quality justify the effort.
Good to know
Arrive at opening (1 PM for lunch, early evening for dinner) to maximize walk-in chances—the queue grows exponentially as the night progresses, and bar seats turn over faster than tables.
The chef
Oswaldo González
Oswaldo González built his culinary foundation across a remarkable international brigade trail, training at Benares and The Palomar in London, staging under Juan Mari Arzak during the Basque master's London residence, and working with Gastón Acurio in Peru before returning to Madrid for stints at DSTAgE and Triciclo. That diverse apprenticeship—spanning Indian spice work, Middle Eastern heat, Basque precision, and Peruvian tradition—now informs his approach at Los 33, where he applies refined technique to the primal ritual of the asado. González's philosophy centers on quality product and fire mastery, letting dry-aged beef and wood smoke speak while layering in contemporary touches learned across three continents.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
The kitchen's strength lies in its fire mastery—cuts like wagyu rib steak and Angus bavette emerge with deep Maillard crust and perfect interior doneness, showcasing González's background across kitchens from DSTAgE to Arzak's London outpost. Signature starters like the 'bikini' toastie and Betanzos-style tortilla Salesas (runny-centered, golden-edged) have earned devoted followings, while dishes like maccherone with meat ragù and txistorra reflect the menu's fusion sensibility. Execution is consistently strong, though on crowded evenings a few plates can arrive slightly off temperature—minor lapses in an otherwise confident brigade.
Vibe
FestiveThis is a buzzy, modern fire temple with stone walls, candlelight, and an open grill anchoring the dining room, all soundtracked by a resident DJ spinning sets that keep energy high without tipping into club territory. The crowd skews stylish and celebratory—expect date nights, groups marking occasions, and a see-and-be-seen element—while the atmosphere remains warm rather than pretentious. Noise levels run moderate to lively; conversation flows easily, but this isn't the spot for quiet contemplation.
Service
The brigade moves with practiced efficiency despite persistent full houses, guided by sommelier Silvia Machado, who navigates a 150-label cellar weighted toward Spanish and Latin American producers with genuine enthusiasm. Servers offer solid menu guidance—particularly on cuts and cooking styles—and pacing generally holds steady, though peak-hour service can occasionally feel rushed between courses. The front-of-house maintains a relaxed professionalism that matches the room's energy, though the entrance queuing process can feel slightly chaotic on weekend nights.
Setting
Casa Muñoz's design balances rustic warmth with contemporary polish—exposed stone, dark wood tables, and flickering candlelight frame sight lines to the wood-fired grill, where flames and smoke become part of the visual theatre. The Plaza de las Salesas location offers a genteel Centro address, though the real draw is the interior's moody, intimate atmosphere. Seating ranges from bar perches (coveted for solo diners and walk-ins) to dining room tables near the fire, each offering a slightly different vantage on the live-fire spectacle.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Exceptional wood-fired beef and a mastery of the open grill that rivals South America's best asadores
- A rare dining atmosphere that marries serious cooking with DJ-driven energy and late-night service
- González's cross-cultural fluency—techniques learned under Arzak and at DSTAgE applied to Uruguayan grill traditions
Don't go for
- A quiet, intimate dinner—the DJ, candlelit buzz, and packed tables create lively energy that doesn't suit contemplative meals
- Spontaneous last-minute dining—unless you're willing to queue, advance planning (or significant patience) is essential
Details
Pl. de las Salesas, 9, Centro, 28004 Madrid, Spain
€€€