KöD London City
London, United Kingdom
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
About KöD London City
KöD London City brings a Nordic-British sensibility to the City's steakhouse scene, tucked into the quiet enclave of Devonshire Square just steps from Liverpool Street station. The kitchen—led by James Durrant, who spent eight years in Gordon Ramsay's brigade—approaches beef with the precision of fine dining and the warmth of a neighbourhood grill. From bottomless Sunday roasts to carefully sourced cuts cooked over high heat, this is steakhouse cooking with pedigree and personality, served in a cosy courtyard setting that feels worlds away from the City's chaos.
Good to know
Book the bottomless Sunday roast well in advance—it's booked solid weeks ahead—and ask your server if they can push the steak closer to rare if you prefer it less cooked; the kitchen is flexible despite the stated medium/well policy.
The chef
James Durrant
James Durrant honed his craft over eight years within Gordon Ramsay's demanding brigade, rotating through the three-Michelin-starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, the classic French refinement of Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's, and the contemporary small-plates innovation of Maze. That tenure instilled a foundation of precision, consistency, and an exacting approach to sourcing and technique that now informs KöD's philosophy. At KöD, Durrant marries his fine-dining discipline with a more relaxed, Nordic-inflected sensibility—focusing on quality British and European beef, straightforward but confident cooking over flame, and letting prime ingredients speak without unnecessary flourish.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
Durrant's Ramsay-trained technique shows in the execution: steaks arrive with proper crust and accurate temps, particularly the fillet and sirloin cooked medium-rare with a deep Maillard char. The bottomless Sunday feast—unlimited tri-tip, chips, and peppercorn sauce—has earned a devoted following for generous portions and consistent doneness, though some find the standard cooking options (medium or well) limiting. Sides like creamy mash and simple Caesar salad play supporting roles, while starters like carpaccio bring finesse to what is fundamentally an exercise in quality beef, proper seasoning, and confident grilling.
Vibe
LivelyThe courtyard location creates an unexpectedly serene pocket in the heart of the City, with covered outdoor seating and a cosy, refined interior that keeps noise levels civilized enough for conversation. The atmosphere skews smart-casual with a neighbourhood sensibility—music stays at conversation-friendly volume, and the lighting strikes that rare balance between intimate and welcoming. On weekends, the energy picks up with the Sunday roast crowd, but the secluded square maintains a hidden gem quality that regulars guard jealously.
Service
The front-of-house team operates with genuine warmth and fine-dining precision, explaining dishes in detail and pacing courses with care—clear hallmarks of proper training. Staff demonstrate solid product knowledge, guiding diners through cuts and cooking temps with patience, though busy services can occasionally stretch attention thin. The greeting is consistently warm, the wine service attentive, and there's a professionalism to the operation that reflects Durrant's Ramsay pedigree filtering through the brigade.
Setting
The restaurant occupies a characterful spot within Devonshire Square, a cobbled courtyard that buffers the dining room from Liverpool Street's weekday rush. Inside, the décor leans contemporary and refined without steakhouse clichés—warm lighting, clean lines, and an ambiance that feels more Scandi-smart than clubby or masculine. The entrance can be slightly hidden (look for the staircase), but once inside, the setting delivers an intimate, off-the-radar feel that belies its proximity to one of London's busiest transport hubs.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Ramsay-trained precision applied to quality beef with proper technique and generous Sunday roasts
- A hidden courtyard location that feels like a secret escape in the heart of the City
- Warm, knowledgeable service that balances fine-dining polish with neighbourhood hospitality
Don't go for
- Adventurous rare or blue steaks—the kitchen prefers medium and above, especially on busy Sunday services
- A deeply curated wine program or extensive bottle list—the selection is carefully chosen but modest in scope
Details
9A Devonshire Square, London EC2M 4YN, UK
££