Habitual
Valencia, Spain · L'Eixample
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
About Habitual
Ricard Camarena's more accessible project delivers the celebrated chef's signature vegetable-forward Mediterranean cooking in the modernist Mercado de Colón, tucked into a strikingly designed basement space lined with poplar wood and circular motifs. This is a chance to experience Camarena's precise technique and commitment to local, seasonal producers without the formality or price point of his flagship operation. The kitchen's focus on sustainability and produce-driven plates has built a devoted following among locals who want refined cooking in a relaxed, everyday setting.
Good to know
Book the lunch menu for exceptional value—it's a brilliant way to experience Camarena's cooking without the flagship price tag, and the quality never feels compromised.
The chef
Ricard Camarena
Ricard Camarena trained at Piscina de Barx and Arrop Gandia before building a reputation as Valencia's most technically accomplished chef, earning recognition for his vegetable-forward approach to Mediterranean cooking. His career trajectory includes numerous accolades: the Revelation Restaurant award at Madrid Fusión in 2006, Best Chef by the Valencian Academy of Gastronomy in 2007, Best Foreign Chef by Identità Golose in 2018, and Cocinero del Año at Madrid Fusión in 2021. Camarena's philosophy centers on sustainability, local sourcing, and elevating seasonal produce to the same level of reverence typically reserved for proteins—a commitment that has made him a leader in Spain's evolving culinary landscape.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
Camarena's respect for vegetables shines through in every dish, from perfectly charred aubergine to tender leeks that hold their terroir, while proteins like beef tartare prepared tableside and expertly cooked solomillo demonstrate classic technique executed with precision. The lunch menu offers exceptional value, showcasing the kitchen's mise en place and disciplined approach to Mediterranean flavors—this is cooking that understands balance, acidity, and the importance of letting ingredients speak for themselves.
Vibe
LivelyDespite the subterranean location beneath one of Valencia's most beautiful markets, the atmosphere feels relaxed and unpretentious—jeans and sneakers alongside business lunches, families with children seated comfortably among couples celebrating anniversaries. The open kitchen adds energy without noise, and the warm wood tones soften what could have been a sterile space into something genuinely welcoming.
Service
The brigade operates with precision, clearly well-trained and coordinated, delivering attentive service that feels professional without crossing into stuffiness. Tableside preparation adds theater where it matters, and the team handles dietary restrictions with ease, though language barriers can occasionally complicate communication for non-Spanish speakers.
Setting
Francesc Rifé Studio's design transforms the lower level of the landmark Mercado de Colón into a sophisticated yet comfortable dining room, where extensive poplar wood cladding and repeating circular motifs create visual warmth. The open kitchen concept gives diners a direct view of the brigade at work, reinforcing the transparency and craft that define Camarena's approach.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Experiencing Ricard Camarena's cooking at a more approachable price point
- Vegetable-forward Mediterranean cuisine executed with precision and respect for terroir
- A refined lunch spot that works equally well for business or leisurely dining
Don't go for
- Seeking a traditional paella experience or rustic Valencian tavern atmosphere
- Wanting a window-side table with natural light and market views
Wine list
Habitual104 winesDetails
Mercado de Colón, Carrer de Jorge Juan, 19, L'Eixample, 46004 València, Valencia, Spain
€€€