Forza Wine at the National Theatre
London, United Kingdom
Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
About Forza Wine at the National Theatre
Perched atop the National Theatre, this Italian-ish wine bar from former River Cafe chef Michael Lavery brings produce-driven small plates and an extensive natural wine list to one of London's most striking terraces. The kitchen's River Cafe pedigree shows in the simplicity and precision—dishes built around impeccable ingredients treated with restraint, whether it's plump mussels with datterini tomatoes on blistered toast or clams with pancetta. Recognized by Time Out as the Number One London Rooftop Bar for 2025, it's the rare pre-theatre spot where the food commands as much attention as the Thames views.
Good to know
Book a terrace table well in advance—it's infinitely more appealing than the dimly lit interior, especially for early evening dining when the light catches the Thames.
The chef
Michael Lavery
Michael Lavery honed his craft at The River Cafe, the legendary Hammersmith institution that shaped a generation of London chefs with its commitment to Italian simplicity and ingredient obsession. That training is evident in his approach at Forza Wine—pristine produce, minimal intervention, and technique that knows when to step back. His Italian-ish concept reflects the River Cafe philosophy without slavish imitation, allowing for playful departures while maintaining that core respect for seasonality and sourcing. Lavery's cooking philosophy centers on letting exceptional ingredients speak for themselves, supported by smart technique and a wine program that amplifies rather than competes with the food.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
Lavery's River Cafe training is evident in the kitchen's ingredient-first approach—think cauliflower fritti with proper char, onglet cooked to rosy perfection, and specials like Italian pumpkin lentils with hazelnuts that regulars lobby to keep on rotation. The sharing-style plates work brilliantly for grazing before a show, with standouts like the mussels and datterini tomatoes on toast delivering textural contrast—crisp, springy bread soaking up sweet-savory sauce beneath plump shellfish. Portions tend toward generous for small plates, and the kitchen's confident hand with simple technique lets quality produce shine.
Vibe
LivelyThe atmosphere shifts between relaxed pre-theatre buzz and post-work unwinding, with a honeycomb-paneled ceiling that aims to tame the noise but doesn't always succeed when the room fills. Lighting runs dim—charming for some, challenging for menu-reading for others—creating a moody, informal energy that feels more downtown wine bar than South Bank institution. The rooftop terrace is the real draw, especially on warm days when blankets appear for cooler evenings and the Thames stretches out below.
Service
The front-of-house team earns consistent praise for warmth and professionalism, with staff who genuinely know the menu and can guide you through the natural wine list with thoughtful recommendations. Service feels attentive without hovering, and the team shows flexibility—swapping tables for lingering guests, scripting recipes for smitten diners, and handling dietary restrictions with care. Expect a friendly, knowledgeable approach that matches the restaurant's low-key Italian hospitality.
Setting
The location inside the National Theatre complex makes it surprisingly hard to find—signage is minimal—but the payoff is a rooftop perch with sweeping Thames views that feels worlds away from the concrete brutalism below. The interior balances warm woods and modern touches beneath that distinctive honeycomb ceiling, though the real estate everyone wants is the outdoor terrace where you can watch the river traffic roll by. It's an unexpected oasis in the South Bank cultural quarter, blending theatre-district convenience with genuine neighborhood charm.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Pre-theatre dining with actual ambition and River Cafe-level technique
- One of London's most compelling rooftop terraces with Thames views
- A smartly curated natural wine list guided by knowledgeable staff
Don't go for
- A quiet, intimate dinner—the room gets lively and the acoustics don't always cooperate
- Traditional full-portion mains—the format is Italian-style sharing plates meant for grazing