Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
About Flank
Tom Griffiths brings his nose-to-tail barbecue philosophy to Market Halls Victoria, cooking over open flame with the same primal approach that made his Brighton pop-ups a word-of-mouth sensation. The menu shifts week to week based on what's available, championing lesser-known cuts and whole-animal butchery in a fast-casual format that proves serious meat cookery doesn't need white tablecloths. It's for eaters who appreciate the alchemy of fire and fat, where a perfectly charred brisket naan or a beef dumpling fat with marrow can hit harder than any Wagyu filet.
Good to know
Skip the burger if you want to see what Griffiths does best—order the beef dumpling or brisket naan to experience his nose-to-tail philosophy in concentrated form.
The chef
Tom Griffiths
Tom Griffiths launched Flank in Brighton in 2015, building a reputation through pop-up residencies across the city before landing a permanent home. He honed his open-flame technique through collaborations with Brunswick House and Yosma, and showcased his whole-animal approach at Meatopia, the live-fire festival that attracts barbecue obsessives from around the world. His philosophy is rooted in nose-to-tail cooking—championing cheaper, underutilized cuts and letting fire, fat, and patience coax out maximum flavor with minimal fuss.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
Griffiths cooks with confident simplicity, letting smoke and char do the heavy lifting on cuts that benefit from slow cooking and high heat. The burgers have earned a devoted following for their beefy intensity and proper crust, while the beef dumplings showcase a more delicate hand with rich, yielding fillings. Execution can vary depending on service rush—some plates arrive impeccably cooked, others miss the mark on consistency.
Vibe
LivelyYou're eating in the buzzing scrum of Market Halls Victoria, where Flank competes for attention with a dozen other vendors and the din of commuters and office workers. The energy is fast-paced and communal, with shared seating and a come-as-you-are vibe that favors efficiency over lingering. Expect crowds during peak lunch and dinner rushes when finding a table becomes sport.
Service
The team runs a straightforward counter-service operation—order, grab a number, find a seat. Staff are generally friendly and helpful with menu questions, though the pace is brisk and interaction brief. Don't expect the attentiveness of a full-service restaurant; this is grab-and-go hospitality with a smile.
Setting
Flank operates from a compact stall within the industrial-chic confines of Market Halls Victoria, all exposed brick and Edison bulbs designed for volume and turnover. The open kitchen lets you watch the action at the grill, flames licking at hanging cuts in a theater of smoke and sizzle. It's functional rather than beautiful, steps from Victoria Station, making it a convenient pit stop for commuters and tourists alike.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Bold, smoke-kissed meat cookery that celebrates undervalued cuts
- Fast-casual convenience near Victoria Station with serious technique behind it
- A short, well-chosen natural wine list that pairs beautifully with fatty, charred flavors
Don't go for
- Quiet, intimate dining—Market Halls is loud, crowded, and built for volume
- Guaranteed consistency on every visit—execution can be uneven during peak service