Insider Compass
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
RECOGNITIONS
About DiverXO
David Muñoz's culinary theatre unfolds in a world where flying pigs reign and boundaries dissolve—this is Madrid's most audacious fine dining experience, holding three Michelin stars and fusing Asian techniques with Spanish soul. The avant-garde tasting menu, titled *La Cocina de los Cerdos Voladores*, is equal parts hedonism and precision, layering global ingredients with playful irreverence and technical mastery that has captivated the international dining scene. This isn't refined minimalism—it's maximalist gastronomy for those who crave bold, unapologetic flavors and theatrical presentation that challenges every preconception of what a three-star meal should be.
Good to know
Book months ahead and request a table in the main dining room rather than a booth if you want better sightlines to the theatrical service choreography.
The chef
David Muñoz Rosillo
David Muñoz Rosillo cut his teeth in Madrid at Viridiana, Catamarán, and Chantarella before seeking out the world's most progressive Asian kitchens—stages at London's Hakkasan, Nobu, Nahm, and Locanda Locatelli shaped his fusion philosophy. Since opening DiverXO in 2007, he's built a reputation for culinary fearlessness, earning three Michelin stars and international acclaim for his ability to marry Spanish terroir with pan-Asian technique. His approach is rooted in hedonism and maximal flavor, rejecting restraint in favor of layered complexity, char, spice, and umami—a cooking style that's polarizing by design but technically flawless in execution.
The Insider Compass
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Plate
Muñoz's cooking is a high-wire act of complexity and intensity, where charred flavors, lemongrass, and umami bombs collide with Spanish terroir in dishes that read like fever dreams but taste astonishingly coherent. Techniques borrowed from his time at Hakkasan and Nahm in London meet Iberian ingredients, resulting in courses that layer texture upon texture—crispy, creamy, raw, seared—each element engineered for maximum impact. The kitchen's commitment to global fusion means you might encounter Peking duck technique applied to Spanish pigeon or Thai curry deconstructed through a Madrid lens, all executed with the precision expected at this level.
Vibe
LivelyThe dining room is a fantastical carnival of bold colors, theatrical sculptures, and flying pig motifs that announce you've entered Muñoz's imagination—this is energetic, disruptive fine dining that eschews hushed reverence for playful irreverence. Expect a lively, buzzing atmosphere where course pacing feels like choreographed chaos and the space itself reflects the chef's maximalist philosophy. It's privacy within spectacle—tables feel intimate despite the visual cacophony, and the energy reads more rock concert than traditional temple of gastronomy.
Service
The brigade matches the kitchen's bold energy, delivering service that's warm, knowledgeable, and theatrically engaged without sliding into stuffiness—expect detailed explanations of each course's inspiration and technique. Staff navigate the complex menu with genuine enthusiasm, from the sommelier's adventurous pairings to the front-of-house team's ability to read the room and adjust pacing accordingly. While the setting can make flagging down servers slightly challenging during peak moments, the team's attentiveness and willingness to adapt—particularly around allergies and dietary needs—demonstrates serious hospitality chops beneath the punk-rock veneer.
Setting
Housed within the NH Eurobuilding in Chamartín, the space is a deliberate departure from traditional luxury codes—think neon-lit sculptures, graffiti-inspired art, and an aesthetic that channels underground club meets avant-garde gallery. The bold décor with vibrant pinks, golds, and whimsical pig iconography creates an immersive environment that either thrills or overwhelms depending on your taste for maximalism. Every design choice, down to the waitstaff's streetwear-inspired uniforms, reinforces Muñoz's vision of fine dining unshackled from convention.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Go for
- Experiencing Madrid's most daring and internationally recognized culinary voice
- Bold, unapologetic fusion cuisine that layers Asian technique with Spanish ingredients
- A theatrical, maximalist dining experience that breaks every fine dining convention
Don't go for
- Traditional Spanish cuisine or refined minimalist plating
- Quiet, subdued fine dining atmosphere or conventional luxury aesthetics
Details
NH Eurobuilding, C. del Padre Damián, 23, Chamartín, 28036 Madrid, Spain
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