Portofino, Italy
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
Perched directly on Portofino's legendary piazzetta, DaV Mare brings the expertise of three-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio to one of the Mediterranean's most storied harbors. Since opening in 2022, chef Riccardo Valore has established a kitchen built around Ligurian seafood treated with contemporary Italian precision—think impeccably sourced raw crudo, signature Pacchero alla Vittorio, and basil pesto that honors local tradition while showcasing refined technique. The experience balances harbor-front glamour with serious culinary ambition, complemented by a thoughtful wine program emphasizing grower-producer Champagnes and regional bottles.
Request a table on the harbor-facing edge of the terrace at sunset—the light on the water and facades is spectacular, and it's worth timing your reservation around golden hour.
Riccardo Valore built his foundation at Bocconi in Paris before staging through some of Europe and Asia's most demanding kitchens—Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Saint-Germain, Harris Bar in London, under Neil Perry in Australia, and with Umberto Bombana in Macau. His formative time at three-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio in Brusaporto directly informs the approach at DaV Mare, where he translates that Northern Italian precision to Liguria's seafood larder. Valore's philosophy centers on impeccable sourcing and restrained technique—letting the Mediterranean catch speak while applying the classical rigor learned under his Michelin-starred mentors.
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Valore's training under Joël Robuchon, Umberto Bombana, and stages across Paris, London, Australia, and Macau shows in the technical precision—tagliolini finished tableside, pesto that achieves proper emulsion, and crudo that respects the raw ingredient while adding just enough finesse. The Pacchero alla Vittorio arrives loaded with shellfish in a luxurious sauce that balances richness with clarity, while seasonal antipasti showcase the daily catch treated with restraint. Execution is consistently clean, though pricing reflects both the Da Vittorio pedigree and the captive Portofino market.
The terrace overlooking the piazzetta hums with that particular Portofino energy—yachts bobbing in the harbor, designer sunglasses, and the thrum of a moneyed crowd enjoying la dolce vita. It's polished without being stuffy, dressed-up but not black-tie, the kind of scene where a well-made Negroni and impeccable brodetto feel perfectly at home. Evenings bring a romantic glow as the harbor lights reflect off the water, though summer high season can tip toward bustling.
The brigade runs with the polish you'd expect from the Da Vittorio connection—tableside presentations, proper plate knowledge, and the kind of attentive choreography that anticipates needs without hovering. Staff handle the tourist influx with professionalism, maintaining warmth even when the terrace is packed. The sommelier program is solid, particularly for pairing Ligurian whites and French bubbles with the seafood-forward menu.
Claiming prime real estate on Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta, the terrace offers unobstructed views of Portofino's postcard-perfect harbor and the colorful facades that ring it. The interior maintains a contemporary elegance—clean lines, maritime blues, and enough sophistication to match the culinary ambition without competing with the view. The 'Bartender's Table Experience' adds a playful dimension, combining haute cuisine with tailored mixology in a more intimate setting.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta, 1, 16034 Portofino GE, Italy
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