Berlin, Germany · Bezirk Tempelhof-Schöneberg
An expert assessment built on data, context and gastronomic judgement.
Nikodemus Berger's Michelin-starred cocktail bistro in Schöneberg has rewritten the playbook for plant-based fine dining in Berlin, earning both a star and Green Star for its zero-waste, locally sourced approach. The kitchen delivers technique-driven vegan cuisine that doesn't lean on meat analogues but instead showcases vegetables, fermentation, and seasonal German produce with the kind of finesse you'd expect from classical French training. Whether you come for the acclaimed vegan brunch or the evening tasting menu with tailored cocktail pairings, this is proof that plant-forward cooking can hold its own in the gastronomic arena.
Book a seat at the bar rather than a table—you'll get direct access to the team's expertise, watch both food and cocktail prep unfold, and can adjust your pairings on the fly based on what you're tasting.
Nikodemus Berger trained at Le Faubourg, where he developed the classical French technique that now underpins his progressive plant-based cooking at Bonvivant. Since taking the reins as executive chef, he's earned recognition for his zero-waste philosophy and commitment to local, seasonal sourcing, building dishes around fermentation, smoking, and layered vegetable preparations rather than meat substitutes. His approach has drawn comparisons to the early days of René Redzepi's work at Noma—the same focus on subtle complexity, finite detail, and reverence for ingredient integrity. Berger's cooking reflects a belief that plant-forward cuisine can hold its own in fine dining without mimicking animal products, relying instead on technique, terroir, and creativity.
Four dimensions, each assessed independently against the same criteria everywhere we rate.
Berger's cooking demonstrates the kind of subtle complexity and finite detail that comes from serious classical training at Le Faubourg, building layers of umami through fermentation, smoking, and careful seasoning rather than relying on dairy or animal fats. The brunch offerings—particularly the miso hollandaise Benedict and oyster mushroom preparations—show technical precision, while the evening tasting menus push boundaries with creative vegetable-forward compositions that play with texture and temperature. Expect bold, sometimes assertive flavors (fermented mustard notes appear frequently) and presentations that prioritize the ingredient over gimmickry.
The space strikes a balance between refined retro chic and approachable cocktail bar energy, with a laid-back atmosphere that invites long, leisurely meals without the stuffiness that can plague fine dining. Seating at the bar offers front-row access to both the kitchen window and the drink-making theatre, while the separate dining room provides a quieter, more intimate alternative. Weekend brunch brings a lively, cosmopolitan crowd; evenings skew toward serious food lovers and curious locals willing to commit to a four-hour tasting experience.
The brigade runs with world-class attentiveness, offering detailed explanations of each dish's provenance and technique without veering into pretension—staff clearly know the product inside and out. Bar seating gets you direct interaction with the team, who happily tailor cocktail pairings and wine recommendations to your preferences throughout the meal. Pacing can occasionally lag during peak service, particularly on busy brunch weekends, but the hospitality remains warm and genuinely welcoming even when the kitchen is in the weeds.
The modern, clean-lined interior features warm wood tones, comfortable if not plush seating, and an open sightline to the kitchen that reinforces the transparency of Berger's approach. Located on a quiet Schöneberg street, the restaurant's outdoor terrace becomes prime real estate during warmer months, with blankets provided for chilly evenings. The design favors functionality over flash—this is a working cocktail bistro first, with aesthetic touches that support rather than distract from the food and drink.
These four dimensions are a handful of the attributes we review. The Insider Rating also draws on research the compass does not display — among them the wine programme, the size and quality of the cellar, the location, and how long the house has operated. It is not an average of the scores above.
Goltzstraße 32, 10781 Berlin, Germany
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